The Passing of Tom Gaspick

Tom Gaspick sadly passed away today in the early AM of January 14th after a short battle with Cancer. 

He will be missed and remembered by all those who loved him and all those he touched with his writing. 

Details of his funeral will be posted here when available. 

End Of The Line

Today was my last day of employment at the bricks-and-mortar repair shop where I got the content for this virtual repair shop. The work had been drying up for a long time, so my layoff comes as no surprise.

My thanks to those who've written favourable comments. I'm glad to know that I've been of some help.

I'll leave this blog up for the time being. It's extremely unlikely that I'll ever see any printer work again, so new material is probably at an end.

Anyway, if anyone has technical documentation work to be done, I'm available.

Regards to all,

Tom

Oki 395 -- Power Supply Replacement -- Revision 'A' and 'B' Printers

[The revision level of early printers is given by the fourth character of the serial number.]


Direct replacement power supplies for revision 'A' and 'B' printers are no longer available; you'll have to use the power supply meant for revision 'C' machines. ( P/N 42312551.) That power supply has different cable connectors than those on earlier power supplies. There are two ways to deal with that wrinkle.


a) Replace the affected cables:

You'll need to order one each of P/N 41998701 (9 conductor cable) and P/N 41998801 (13 conductor cable). Those cables will fit the connectors on a revision 'C' power supply.

Or,

b) Swap the old power supply's connectors over to the new power supply.

The circuit boards are of simple, single-sided construction. It's not difficult to unsolder the connectors, and install the early-style connectors on the new power supply.

The new-style connectors don't take heat very well, and are likely to be ruined by removing them, but that's really not a problem since they won't be needed again anyway. Fortunately, the early-style connectors stand up to unsoldering and resoldering just fine.

- - -

To gain access to the power supply, proceed as follows:


1) Platen Knob

2) Ribbon Access Cover

3) Top Cover
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head screws w/captive plastic washers at the rear.
- Tip up the rear of the cover and unhook its lower front edge.
- NOTE: There are two M4 hex nuts in pockets at the rear of the machine that are unsecured once the cover has been removed. It's best to remove them and set them aside with the two cover screws. The nuts are easily dislodged and lost if compressed air is used to clean the chassis.
-RE-INSTALLATION NOTE: Mind the bail actuator when re-installing the cover. The actuator must be fully toward the rear of the printer, so it ends up behind the bail's left side arm.

4) Ribbon Cartridge

5) Control Panel w/Sheet Metal Mount
- One ZIF connector for the flat cable.
- One two-conductor cable connection at the lower right of the main logic PCA (CN13).
- Five M3x6mm washerhead screws.
- Lift away the assembly a couple of inches and disconnect one four-conductor cable (CN11).

6) Main Logic PCA
- Nine cable connections.
- One captive M4 screw securing a bracket at the lower rear of the PCA.
- NOTE: Connections CN1 and CN11 are physically identical. In later machines, CN1 is yellow to avoid mix ups. In early machines, CN1 and CN11 are both white. If you encounter a white CN1, mark the CN1 cable end so you won't transpose it with CN11.

7) Mechanism
- Two cable connections at the upper right of the interface connection PCA.
- Three M4x8mm pan head screws w/captive washers at the upper rear.
- Three M4x12mm pan head screws w/captive washers; three anchor plates low in the chassis pan.
- Lift the mechanism straight up out of the chassis pan.

8) Power Supply
- Four M4x8mm pan head screws w/captive washers.

9) Cabling

Should you have chosen to replace the cables, they're now accessible -- you just have to coax out the plastic covering pieces.

Before disturbing the old cables, take a Sharpie marker and make a reference mark on the chassis pan near the power supply end of the cables. Mark the edges of the cables correspondingly adjacent to the chassis pan mark. Once you have the old cables out of the chassis pan, use their marks to guide you in marking the new cables the same way. Then you'll be able to get the new cables in place with just the right amount of slack at the power supply end.

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HP LaserJet P2035n -- Fuser Replacement

Fuser P/N is RM1-6405. Proceed as follows:

1) Cartridge

2) Tray 2

3) Left Side Cover
- Front door open.
- Pry at front lip and at centre of top lip to free the cover.
- NOTE: The small claw at the centre of the top lip is liable to break. No real harm is done by that.

4) Right Side Cover
- Open the upper back door (green handle).
- Pry at top and bottom of rear lip.
- Pry at top lip near 'Ready' indicator.

5) Rear Cover
- Five M3x8mm washerhead screws.


6) 'In-The-Way' Cabling
- The cabling that runs across the back of the media feed guide has nothing to do with the fuser's connections, but it must be freed and moved aside.
- Five cable connections. 'Best to disconnect them in sequence from your right to your left. Reconnect them in the reverse sequence.

7) Media Feed Guide
- One M3x6mm black washerhead screw at centre.
- Slide the item to your right to free it.
- NOTE how the item hooks a two-conductor blue cable.

8) Fuser Cabling
- NOTE the unused connectors in the area. They can be a bit confusing at reconnection time.
- One red/blue/green fuser exit sensor cable.
- One two-conductor blue thermistor cable.
- One white wire at the extreme left.
- One two-conductor power connector at the extreme right. (Press its latch tab forward.)

9) Three Gears
- At the right side, there are three gears accessible for removal.
- Frontmost, largest gear -- one claw.
- Upper, smallest gear -- one claw.
- Rearmost gear with 'handle' -- one claw. You may have to nudge the gear CW a bit to get it out. NOTE that there's a timing relationship associated with this gear. The flange on its inboard end is notched to preclude getting it back in place out-of-time with the sector gear below it. A protrusion on the top of the gear aligns with a notch in the gear above it. Here's a view of the three gears.

10) Fuser
- Two M3x8mm washerhead screws.
- NOTE that the two lower screw holes are for the rear cover.
- Slide the fuser out the back.

- - -

Operation Without the Rear Cover

There's a small, white lever at the left side rear of the fuser. That lever must be held down for the printer to operate without the rear cover in place; a jam indication results otherwise.

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FEEDBACK

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Lexmark T650 -- Printhead Replacement

Proceed as follows:

1) Cartridge

2) Tray 1

3) Redrive Cap

4) Back Door
- Disengage the support strap from its 'inverted T' slot and pull the door off its hinge pins.

5) Connection Access Cover
- Open it fully and its hinges can be popped free rearward.

6) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door
- Three M3x10mm black washerhead threading screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Pull the cover away at your left and slide the cover toward your right. A downward-pointing hook will slide off a lip at the rear of the chassis.
- NOTE: The above-mentioned hook makes this an awkward part to get back in place. You have to exactly re-create the cover's attitude as the hook was coming off to get it back on again.


7)Redrive Assembly
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Two outward-hooking claws, left and right side, at about the middle.

8) Left Side Cover -- T650
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead threading screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws in deep wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- Tug on the front lip of the cover to free it; the cover then comes away easily from its hinges.


9) Right Side Cover -- T650
- One M3x10mm washerhead threading screw at the rear.
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead threading screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws in shallow wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- Tug on the front lip of the cover to free it.


10) Fuser Cleaning Wand Cover w/Wand

11) Top Cover
- One M4x10mm pan head threading screw at the right rear.
- Four M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- The front edge has to be forced up past the rear edge of the upper front door. NOTE: It's a bit difficult to get this cover levered back into place at the front, but it is doable without damaging anything.

12) System PCA Enclosure Cover
- One M3x6mm black pan head screw at the upper rear.
- Loosen five M3x6mm black pan head screws.

13) Printhead
- Cable connection 'JGALV01' at the System PCA. (Cut ty-wraps A/R to free the cable.)
- One cable connection at the top left of the printhead.
- Three M3.5x13mm pan head threading screws w/captive washers.

- - -

Optical Skew Adjustment

Note that the printhead pivots on a reference pin at about the mid left-rear. That pivoting is what makes optical skew adjustable. The adjustment range is determined by the printhead fastening hole at the right side end of the printhead. There are two ways to deal with the optical skew adjustment.

Quick Method

For a quick way to adjust optical skew, simply fasten the printhead in place with the adjustment at its obvious design-centre, as in the following photo.

For most applications, the adjustment will be close enough to correct, and perfectly acceptable to the user.

'Correct' Method

To get optical skew set to perfection, proceed as follows:

1) Install printhead with the three screws not fully tightened.

2) Reinstall cartridge and tray 1.

3) Start the printer in DIAGNOSTICS mode. (Hold 'down arrow' and 'right arrow' keys while powering on.)

4) Select REGISTRATION.

5) Scroll to 'Quick Test' and select it.

6) The print you get has marks at the upper corners that make it easy to see if the optical skew adjustment is off. Do the adjustment by trial-and-error, then tighten the three mounting screws when it's right. Here's a view of a Quick Test page showing correct optical skew adjustment.

- - -

Laser Beam Deflection in the T650

The T650's printhead has no polygonal mirror and motor. Instead, it employs an oscillating mirror to deflect the laser beam. Here's a photo of it.

The mirror is right at the centre of that photograph. It pivots slightly on a vertical axis. An alternating magnetic field causes it to oscillate through the angle necessary for laser beam deflection.

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FEEDBACK

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HP LJ P3005 -- Fuser Access

When a P3005 needs a fuser, it's likely to need a set of four associated gears as well. See this post for information on the gear kit.

The P3005's fuser is pretty easy to deal with. Proceed as follows:

1) Cartridge

2) Tray 2

3) Rear Door Fully Open
- Tug it open forcefully and it will open all the way.

4) Rear Cover w/Door
- Two M4x10mm pan head threading screws.
- A claw at either side of the Tray 2 cavity. Raise the small door across the rear of the tray cavity to see them.

5) Mains Receptacle Bezel

6) Duplexer Input Guide (The black plastic 'ramp' at the rear.)
- Two claws -- they have ‘handles’ extending rearward.
- Push up on the claw handles and pull the guide toward you.


7) Fuser Power Cable
- Disconnect it and free it from its restraint.

8) Exit Sensor Cable (Violet)

9) Thermistor Cable (Yellow and white.)
- Free the cable from its white restraint. The restraint can be unlatched with a fingernail or a small screwdriver.

10) Fuser
- Three prominent M4x10mm pan head threading screws.
- One M3x6mm pan head screw w/captive star washer. It’s in a recess at the fuser’s lower right.
- Tug on the fuser's cables to dislodge it.

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FEEDBACK

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Repairing Bent Plastic Parts

Pictured below is a bent paper-out sensor toggle/flag in a Lexmark T630.


It's often possible to repair that sort of thing by heating the part with a lighter or a heat gun and straightening it. I did that to the pictured part and got a reasonably good result, like so.


You have to take great care not to overdo the heat. The plastic needs to be heated just to the point where it can be nudged back to its correct shape, but no hotter -- too much heat is likely to spoil the job.

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FEEDBACK

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Roller Clutch Service

Pictured below is a roller clutch from an HP LaserJet 4100's paper feed assembly.


Note the rollers in the bore that give the clutch its name.

Roller clutches all free-wheel in one direction of rotation, and grip the shaft they're on in the other direction. The clutch pictured was slipping badly in its grip direction. When I was trying it by hand with the assembly out of the printer, it would only grip intermittently; mostly it just free-wheeled in both directions.

These clutches are long lasting, but they will get gummy inside as they age, and that causes them not to grip. To restore a slipping clutch, soak it in Varsol for a few minutes to dissolve the gum, dry it thoroughly, then lubricate it with WD-40 on reassembly. Odds are good that the clutch will work fine. The one in the photograph responded nicely to that treatment.

Roller clutches are widely used, and none are immune to gumming and slipping. The result is invariably intermittent, baffling paper jams. It's a good practice to familiarize yourself with where the roller clutches, if any, are in any given machine.

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FEEDBACK

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Lexmark T64X -- MP Feeder w/Snags

We ran into a T640 giving frequent jams from the MP Feeder. The cause turned out to be a factory defect in the moulding of the lower deflector. Here's a photograph of the flaw.



It's not a great photo, but note the corner of that nearest rib -- it extends vertically a tiny bit above the leading edge of the upward-curving ramp portion of the rib. All the ribs were like that, and jammed sheets showed evidence of snagging at the position of the second rib from the right.

Cutting off the tiny upward projections with a sharp utility knife, and filing a bit to round over the corners fixed it. Here's a view of the part after cutting and filing.


I imagine this flaw results from misaligned moulding equipment. There are probably many such flawed MP Feeder lower deflectors out there.

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FEEDBACK

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Lexmark T65X -- MP Feeder Pickup Solenoid

We've seen several inoperative MP Feeders on T65X machines recently; replacing the pickup solenoid fixes the problem. A service replacement solenoid's P/N is 40X6994. A replacement procedure is included here, toward the end of this note.

- - -

It looks like the MP Feeder's pickup solenoid is a bit of a weak point on the T65X -- the redesigned pickup clutch appears to be the reason for it.

T65X MP Feeder Operation

The T65X MP Feeders don't employ a wrap-spring clutch, as all the earlier T models and the Optra S did. They have a spring-biased clutch-gear with an arc of missing teeth for a disengagement position. The bias torque that engages the clutch-gear with the drivetrain when the solenoid is energized is derived from the feeder's elevator flap spring, via the slope of the elevator cam's lobe profile. Here's a view of the arrangement from in back.



That compressed elevator flap spring is providing a lot of bias torque to the clutch. Consequently, the cam's disengagement ledge is pressing quite forcefully on the solenoid's flapper-end. A subpar solenoid that lacks sufficient electromagnetic force to pull its flapper away  from the cam's ledge will appear to be inoperative.

- - -

Early Solenoid

[MONDAY, AUGUST 20, 2012 -- The following has been revised based on current information.]

It appears that the original solenoid was P/N 40X4365. That solenoid has a 12W coil. The new solenoid, P/N 40X6994, has a 14.4W coil. The new solenoid is bulkier, and more difficult to get into place because of that, but it's a better solenoid for operating the strongly biased clutch on the T65X. Here's a view of the two different solenoids.


At the left is P/N 40X4365, the old, 12W solenoid. At the right is P/N 40X6994, the new 14.4W solenoid. Note the bigger coil/frame on the new solenoid. That makes it a snug fit where it goes, but it does fit in place, and the extra force it has for pulling the flapper is just what's needed for the clutch it works with.

- - -

Solenoid Replacement

Proceed as follows:

1) Toner Cartridge

2) Paper Tray (Tray 1)

3) Back Door
- Disengage the support strap from its 'inverted T' slot and pull the door off its hinge pins.
 
4) Connection Access Cover
- Open it fully and its hinges can be popped free rearward.

5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door -- T650
- Three M3x10mm black washerhead threading screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Pull the cover away at your left and slide the cover toward your right. A downward-pointing hook will slide off a lip at the rear of the chassis.
- NOTE: The above-mentioned hook makes this an awkward part to get back in place. You have to exactly re-create the cover's attitude as the hook was coming off to get it back on again.

5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door -- T652
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Open the lower door.
- Two M3x6mm washerhead screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Tip the cover rearward and lift it off of two hooks at the bottom.

6) Left Side Cover
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead screws in deep wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- T650: Tug at the front lip and two upper claws and one lower claw will pop free. The cover's rear hinges come away easily.
- T652: Similar, but there are six claws, and one of them can be quite tenacious. First, pry at the angled upper front lip to free the upper two claws. The troublesome claw is located roughly 3" from the front and 3" from the bottom. You may have to reach in with a long narrow-bladed screwdriver to pry it loose.

7) System PCA Pan Cover
- One M3x6mm black pan head screw at upper rear.
- Loosen five M3x6mm black pan head screws.


8) MP Feeder Platform
- Flex the slide pins' ways to free the slide pins.
- Tip the platform up to vertical and pull it off its hinge pins.

9) MP Feeder Door
- Pry the support arms to pop their pins out of their ways.
- Slide the door leftward off its hinge pins.

10) Upper Deflector
- Pull the extreme left end of the piece toward you and force the deflector to the right. It can then be unhooked at the right end.
- NOTE that reinstallation of this item is complicated by a downward-projecting spike near its left side end. You really have to flex the thing to get it to go back into place.

11) Solenoid
- One cable connection. (Two-conductor yellow cable.)
- One M3x10mm washerhead threading screw.
- Extract the solenoid/cable.

NOTE: The replacement solenoid has a longer coil/frame than an early solenoid, and is difficult to get in place without loosening off  the MP Feeder Lower Deflector/Elevator Flap Assembly. Remove the two screws that fasten the left side end of the assembly, and you'll be able to gain sufficient clearance to get the new solenoid in place.

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FEEDBACK

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Lexmark T64X -- Dark Background on Prints

The effect pictured below is caused by the printhead.


The giveaway is the appearance of sometimes missing, sometimes prominent scan lines among all the murk. That's evidence of the laser diode in the printhead acting up.

Try reseating the printhead's cable connections. If that doesn't work, replace the printhead. Printhead P/N is 40X0062. That P/N is good for all the T64X models.

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FEEDBACK

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Lexmark T65X -- Drivetrain/Motor Assembly Access

In the T65X machines, the developer drive is integrated with the main drive train and motor assembly; there's no need to remove the developer drive first to get at the main drive. Also, the power connection at the System PCA is new; I've included photos of it further down. Proceed as follows:

- - -

1) Toner Cartridge

2) Paper Tray (Tray 1)

3) Back Door
- Disengage the support strap from its 'inverted T' slot and pull the door off its hinge pins.
 
4) Connection Access Cover
- Open it fully and its hinges can be popped free rearward.

5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door -- T650
- Three M3x10mm black washerhead threading screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Pull the cover away at your left and slide the cover toward your right. A downward-pointing hook will slide off a lip at the rear of the chassis.
- NOTE: The above-mentioned hook makes this an awkward part to get back in place. You have to exactly re-create the cover's attitude as the hook was coming off to get it back on again.

5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door -- T652
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Open the lower door.
- Two M3x6mm washerhead screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Tip the cover rearward and lift it off of two hooks at the bottom.

6) Left Side Cover
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead screws in deep wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- T650: Tug at the front lip and two upper claws and one lower claw will pop free. The cover's rear hinges come away easily.
- T652: Similar, but there are six claws, and one of them can be quite tenacious. First, pry at the angled upper front lip to free the upper two claws. The troublesome claw is located roughly 3" from the front and 3" from the bottom. You may have to reach in with a long narrow-bladed screwdriver to pry it loose.

7) System PCA Pan Cover
- One M3x6mm black pan head screw at upper rear.
- Loosen five M3x6mm black pan head screws.

8) System PCA/Pan Assembly
- One ty-wrap.
- Twenty cable connections.
- Four M3x10mm washerhead threading screws. (They're roughly at the corners of the PCA.)
- Pull the assembly straight away to disconnect J23, the POWER connector. You may have to wiggle the item a bit to get it to let go. The connection is near the lower rear of the PCA. Here's a view of it.

It's much like the PCA connection style that HP has used in many models. Here's a view of the connector pins with the System PCA removed.

It's something to be mindful of when it's exposed -- the pins are easily bent.


9) Vertical PTO Shaft w/Spring
- Pull it out the bottom of the machine.

10) Fuser Drive Engagement Link
- Gently pry its upper end free of the engagement lever. Rotate the link to where its lower end will come free.

11) Drivetrain/Motor Assembly
- One M3x10mm washerhead threading screw at the rear.
- One M3x10mm washerhead threading screw at the lower front.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws high up.
- One cable connection at the motor's rear.

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FEEDBACK

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A Visitor to the Building

I stepped out for a smoke, and this little guy was creeping up by the door frame. Maybe we can sell him a nice LaserJet 4L -- the speed would suit him fine.

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FEEDBACK

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HP LaserJet 2200 -- Tray 2 Pickup Roller & Separation Pad

Part Numbers

Pickup Roller: RB2-6304

Separation Pad: RB2-6349

- - -

Pickup Roller Replacement

1) Cartridge

2) Tray 2

3) Set the printer on its rear.

4) Left Side Bearing
- Unlatch its arm and swing the arm ninety degrees towards you.
- Remove the bearing.

5) Right Side Bearing
- Unlatch its arm and swing the arm ninety degrees towards you.
- Slide the bearing rightward until it's stopped.
- Swing the arm fully up toward the printer and slide the bearing fully to the right.

6) Pickup Roller w/Slip Rollers
- Tip out the right side end of the roller to remove it.
- TRANSFER the slip rollers to the new pickup roller. Missing slip rollers will render Tray 2 inoperative. Replacement rollers are P/N RB2-2892.

- - -

Separation Pad Replacement

1) From underneath, free two claws accessible through rectangular openings.

2) Free two claws at the front face of the separation pad. Lift the pad off its steel bracket.

3) Transfer the spring to the new separation pad. A replacement spring is P/N RS6-2021.

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FEEDBACK

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HP LaserJet 2200 -- Fuser Access

Fuser P/N is RG5-5559. Proceed as follows:

1) Cartridge

2) Tray 2

3) Interface Connections Cover
- Press two latch buttons at the cover's rear. The cover can then be swung away and removed.

4) Right Side Cover
- Under the cartridge door, there's a rectangular latch button. Push that down far enough and the cover can be slid forward about 5/16" to free it. There's a small claw at the front just inside the Tray 2 cavity that you may need to pry loose.

5) Rear Cover/Door
- Open the rear door part way. There's a pivoting guide rib array inside that can be unhooked to permit the door to drop open all the way.
- Two M4x10mm pan head threading screws.
- Two claws just inside the Tray 2 cavity.

6) Duplex Infeed Guide
- Two M4x14mm YZD pan head threading screws w/captive washers.
- Two small, outward-gripping claws, left and right sides.
- NOTE the three round nubs at the inner bottom of the part. Those must engage first at re-installation, then the part can be tipped back into place.

7) Fuser
- Three cable connections.
- One M4x10mm pan head threading screw.
- One M3x6mm pan head screw w/captive star washer.

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FEEDBACK

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Lexmark X342 -- Fuser Replacement

The left and right side covers, and the rear cover have to come off for access to the fuser.

Fuser P/N is 40X4194. Proceed as follows:

- - -

1) Cartridge

2) Paper Tray

3) Paper Tray Rear End Concealment Cover
- Pinch inward at its sides and tip it up to remove it.

4) Lower Right Side Cover
- One M3x9mm washerhead screw in front behind the cartridge access door.
- Swing the cover open, pry it free of its lower hinge pin, lift to get it off its upper hinge pin.

5) Upper Right Side Cover
- One M3x9mm washerhead screw in front behind the cartridge access door.
- Two M3x8mm washerhead threading screws at the back.
- Tip the cover up forcefully to remove it.

6) Left Side Cover
- Two M3x9mm washerhead screws in front behind the cartridge access door.
- Three M3x8mm washerhead threading screws at the back.
- Lay the machine on its right side. (MIND the ADF -- it's likely to swing up.)
- Two claws in front.
- Pry/yank the lower end of the cover away and tip it up to remove it.
- Set the machine back upright.

7) Rear Cover

- Back door open.

- Place something like a 1/2" thick catalogue on the scanner's platen glass to keep the ADF assembly propped up a bit.
- Two M3x9mm washerhead screws at either side of the back door.
- Two claws, either side, low down.
- NOTE: The claw at the right is difficult to release because of a sheet metal piece that's in the way. One M3x8mm washerhead screw to remove the sheet metal piece.
- Tip the cover away.
- RE-INSTALLATION NOTE: Make certain that the cover's upper edge is fully hooked in place before reseating the lower claws.

8) Delivery Assembly
- Two M3x6mm washerhead screws at left and right, high up.
- One M3x9mm washerhead screw at lower left.
- RE-INSTALLATION NOTE: This item comes out easily, but it can be difficult to get back in place. It must be presented straight and level to where it sits, else it will fight you.

9) Fuser
- Exit sensor cable connection at J10.
- Thermistor cable connection at J15.
- Pull the two cables inboard through their horizontal rectangular opening in the sheet metal.
- Two M3x9mm bright washerhead screws at sheet metal tabs, left and right.
- Pull the fuser out far enough to get at the AC spade terminals.
- NOTE: The spade terminals are a lock-on type that can be aggravating to disconnect. The female terminals have a lock-nub that must be pressed with the point of a mechanic's pick to disengage it from the male terminal. You may have to slide back the insulating sleeve to do this. The insulating sleeve on the black wire gets baked and embrittled; you may have to ruin it to get the terminal off.
- RE-INSTALLATION NOTE: The blue and black wires must lie fully within their channel at the left side end of the fuser; there's no clearance for them otherwise. Mind the sheet metal tab at the left side end; it's easy to get it in behind its mounting tab, instead of on the outside of it.

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FEEDBACK

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Lexmark T65X -- Fuser Cleaning Wand Cover Defect

The fuser cleaning wand cover on T65X machines employs the same wand-holding claws as the cover on T64X printers. The claws are exhibiting the same defect as they have on T64X printers. See this post.

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FEEDBACK

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HP LaserJet 1100 -- Pickup Roller, Separation Pads and Feed Roller

Part Numbers

Pickup Roller: RB2-4026

Main Separation Pad: RF5-2886

Left and Right Sub-Pads Kit: RY7-5050^[1]

Feed Roller: RB2-3912

- - -

Introduction

In the 1100 printers, items that commonly need attention are:

a) Pickup Roller.

b) Separation Pads.

c) Sticky Pickup Solenoid.

d) Glazed Feed Roller.

This procedure deals with all four.

[Note: 'Damper Rods' are the black plastic links attached to the door.]

It's quite a teardown to get at everything. Proceed as follows:

- - -

1) Cartridge

2) Side 'Pods'
- Insert a medium-size plain slot screwdriver at the top of each pod and pry outward. The pods will pop free.

3) Left Side Damper Rod
- Disengage the door end of the damper rod. There's a claw on the white anchor block. Press that and the anchor block can be slid out of its channel.

4) Right Side Damper Rod
- Same as left side.

5) Face-Up/Face-Down Deflector
- There's a small claw at its left side end. Push that leftward and the left side end of the deflector can be raised. At the right side end, push down on the wire detent bail, and the deflector can be slid out leftward.

6) Door
- Two M4x8mm black pan head threading screws.
- Slide the door off the hinge, while observing how it mates with the hinge. Reinstallation can be a bit puzzling if you're unfamiliar with the door's fit on its hinge.
- Tie the door hinge in its raised position with a garbage bag tie. It makes a nuisance of itself if left free to flop about.

7) Front Cover
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws high up.
- At the lower rear corners of the cover, flex the cover to free it from its retaining studs. The cover can be tipped up somewhat and eased away frontward.
- Slide the damper rods into the printer.

8) Rear Cover
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws in deep wells.
- Raise the DIMM slot access cover/door. Remove DIMM if present.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer.
- Flex and tip away the cover as you did with the front cover.
- NOTE: At reinstallation, the side guides on the paper supply chute will tend to interfere with this cover. Nudge/pry A/R to get the cover to seat.

9) Paper Supply Chute
- Pry up gently at either side to free it.
- AT REINSTALLATION, watch that the black mylar sheet in front goes straight into place, and won't interfere with paper motion.

10) Printhead Cover
- One cable connection at control panel.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer at left side below control panel.
- Two M4x12mm black pan head threading screws.
- Two claws.

11) Pickup Roller Assembly
- Two M3x6mm bright washerhead screws below the printhead deck.
- The assembly slips off the end of the pickup shaft rightward.
-NOTE: At reinstallation, there are two locating nubs at the upper rear of the white 'ears'. Make certain those nubs are correctly seated before tightening the screws.

12) Printhead w/Sheet Metal Mounting Deck
- One foam rubber dust seal.
- Two cable connections.
- Two M3x6mm bright pan head screws w/captive star washers.
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws at the rear of the deck.
- Lift the item away.

13) Lift Plate
- Manually actuate the pickup solenoid,^[2] and turn the geartrain to get the pickup shaft's cam around to where the cam follower is free of the cam.
- Raise the lift plate until the flats on its left side pivot pin permit it to come out and away.
- NOTE: At reassembly, turn the geartrain again in its correct direction to get the cam back to its normal at-rest position. It will be easier to get the pickup roller assembly back in place.

14) Main Separation Pad
- One white clip.
- TRANSFER the spring to the replacement pad.

15) Left and Right Sub-Pads
- Pluck up their front edges with a fingernail.

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Feed Roller

Glazed feed rollers will not feed paper reliably. If at all in doubt about the feed roller's condition, replace it before reassembling the machine.

Proceed as follows:

- - -

1) Drivetrain (if you haven't already removed it to inspect the pickup solenoid)
- Motor cable connection at rear of motor.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer at lower rear.
- Two or three M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws.

2) Cable Clamp
- Just below the pickup solenoid, there's the mounting stud of a cable clamp. Force it out of place.

3) Lay the printer on its left side.

4) Formatter Pan
- Three M3x6mm bright washerhead screws.
- Swing the pan down from its right side end.

5) Cabling
- Three cable connections.
- NOTE that the white side of the amber cable's end faces up; the contact side faces down.
- Set aside the formatter pan.

6) Amber Cable
- Force the cable's cover rearward to remove it.
- Free the violet cable from two restraints.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer.
- Free the amber cable and pull it out to the front to get it out of harm's way.

7) Amber Cable Trough
- There's a latch tab near the centre rear of the part. Pry that up and you can slide the part rearward to remove it.

8) Engine Controller Assembly
- Fuser power cable connection at right side.
- Fuser thermistor cable connection at left side.
- Pickup solenoid cable connection.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer at right side ground continuity strap.
- Four M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws -- two at the rear; two underneath at the front.
- Free the rear of the assembly and pull it away slightly.
- Two cable connections.

9) Feed Roller Gear/Clutch/Spring
- Two claws.

10) Feed Roller Assembly
- Lay the printer upside down.
- Pry out the white feed roller bearing at the left side. It has two claws holding it in place that will pop free when you pry.
- Two sensor cable connections. Free the long cable.
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws.
- MIND the paper-out sensor's toggle as you take away and reinstall the assembly.
- NOTE the tab at the front of the assembly. That must engage correctly with its slot on reinstallation.
- Clean the bearings w/methyl hydrate. No lubrication is needed.

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Notes:

[1] For what it's worth, the individual parts are:

• Left Side Sub-Pad P/N RF5-2820
• Right Side Sub-Pad P/N RF5-2821
  

[2] On a machine the age of an 1100, it's a good idea to remove the drivetrain and check that the solenoid isn't sticky. See this post.

Drivetrain removal is straightforward -- one cable connection at the rear of the motor, and three screws.

When unplugging the solenoid, take care that the connector shell doesn't come away off the board along with the cable end connector.

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FEEDBACK

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Lexmark X264dn -- LVPS/HVPS Removal

We had to replace one of these recently to solve a 'blank prints' problem; the machine was printing entirely blank pages with no error indication. The prints exhibited a slight bit of grey background.

Part number is 40X5361 (110V).

The unit resides above the paper tray cavity at the rear of the printer. Proceed as follows:

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1) Cartridge

2) Paper Tray

3) Rear Door
- Open it to about a forty-five degree angle, and tug forcefully to pop it off its hinges.

4) Rear Cover
- Two M4x8mm bright washerhead threading screws.
- Pry to free its upper edges at left and right.
- Tip it out and lift its lower hooks off their perches.

5) Front Scanner Cover
- Tug/pry on it. Its four concealed claws will pop free.

6) Left Side Scanner Cover
- One M3x8mm bright washerhead threading screw at the front.
- One M3x8mm bright washerhead threading screw at the rear.
- Tip the bottom of the cover outward to free the cover.

7) Lay the machine on its right side.

8) Left Side Cover
- One M3x6mm bright washerhead screw at lower front.
- Two claws underneath.
- Tip the cover outward and force it upward to free two hook-tabs at the cover's upper lip.

9) Fuser Power Connector
- Two-conductor black cable connection at left side, lower rear.

10) Right Rear Foot
- Two M3x6mm bright washerhead screws.

11) LVPS/HVPS
- Four M3x6mm bright washerhead screws -- two underneath; two at the rear.
- One white-shelled spade connector at left side.
- Three cable connections at PCA.

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FEEDBACK

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Lexmark Optra E310 -- Pickup Roller and Separation Pads Replacement

It's a straightforward job, but it's quite a teardown to get at the parts.

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Part Numbers

Pickup Roller Assembly: 12G0067

Main Separation Pad: 12G0062

Left Side Sub-Pad: 12G0119

Right Side Sub-Pad: 12G0120

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Proceed as follows:

1) Front Face-Up Delivery Door
- Unlatch it, and flex it to remove it from its hinges. This is done to make it easy to dislodge the front door when needed. The door interferes with removing the left and right side covers.

2) Cartridge

3) Rear Cover
- Three M3x10mm bright washerhead threading screws.
- Two claws.
- Force the cover upward a bit to unhook it.
- AT REINSTALLATION, mind the parallel interface connector's bails.

4) Top Cover
- Two M3x10mm bright washerhead threading screws.
- The cover lifts away easily.

5) Left Side Cover
- One M3x10mm bright washerhead threading screw at the lower rear.
- One M3x10mm bright washerhead threading screw securing the door's restraint strap.
- One claw next to the printhead.
- Pry at the lower rear to free a retaining nub from a hole in the chassis.
- The lower front is held in place like the lower rear is. The door makes it a bit awkward to get the lower front freed. Dislodge the door's hinge if needed to get the cover off.

6) Right Side Cover
- One M3x10mm bright washerhead threading screw at the lower rear.
- Similar to left side cover.

7) Paper Supply Chute
- Lift it out.
- AT REINSTALLATION, watch that the black mylar sheet in front goes straight into place, and won't interfere with paper motion.

8) Motor/Drivetrain Assembly
- Note the wire and strap connections, and the 'Z'-shaped cable retainer.
- Six M3x10mm black washerhead threading screws.
- Pull the assembly out a way.
- One cable connection at motor.

9) High Voltage Power Supply (HVPS)
- Three cable connections at the upper edge.
- Five M3x10mm black washerhead threading screws.
- Pull the HVPS out a way.
- One cable connection.

10) Spring-Loaded 'Bullet' Contacts
- With the HVPS removed, four contacts are free to come out. Remove them for safe keeping. NOTE that the lower one of the four has a longer spring on it.

11) Printhead w/Mounting Deck
- This item can't be removed entirely because of the way that it's cabled, but it needs to be moved aside for access to the paper pickup area.
- Six M3x10mm black washerhead threading screws, three per side.
- There's a 'hole & stud' retention in front of the fan. Free that and the unit can be lifted away, and lain down behind the printer.
-REASSEMBLY CAUTION: The two upward-pointing 'ears' on the pickup roller assembly must end up in front of the lower rear ledge of the printhead deck. The printer will not feed paper otherwise.
- CHECK that the pickup solenoid's flapper hasn't been dislodged after reassembly.

12) Lift Plate Springs
- Unhook them.

13) Pickup Clutch
- One e-clip.

14) Left Side Pickup Shaft Bearing
- Black plastic 'rectangular' baffle plate -- a springy claw is securing it.
- One M3x8mm black pan head threading screw at the ground contact strap.
- Swing-latch bearing -- remove it.

15) Pickup Roller Assembly
- Shift it rightward, free its left side end and remove it.

16) Lift Plate
- Raise it until the flats on its right side pivot pin permit it to come out and away.

17) Main Separation Pad
- Tip it up to where it can come out.
- TRANSFER the spring to the relacement pad.

18) Left and Right Sub-Pads
- A slim spring hook is helpful for unclipping their lower rear edges.

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FEEDBACK

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