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The T65X fuser is essentially a T64X fuser chassis with a completely redesigned lamp connection arrangement, and some embellishments.
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Proceed as follows:
1) Lower Rear Cover
- Two M3x6mm pan head screws.
- NOTE: There's a small stud on the underside of the cover between the two screw locations. It can seat quite snugly in its hole in the metal frame, and make the cover seem to be 'stuck'. Poke the stud out of its hole from underneath and the cover comes away easily.
2) Lamp
- Two M3x6mm pan head screws w/captive washers. NOTE that the screw with the smaller flat washer goes at the left side end.
- Slide out the nutplate at the right side end.
- Slide the lamp out the right side end.
3) Thermistor Cable
- NOTE the cable's lay.
- Unplug the cable and free it from its restraints.4) Top Cover
- One M3x6mm pan head screw w/captive washers at the white wire's terminal.
- Two M3x6mm pan head screws.
- NOTE the routing of the two wires.
5) Stripper Bar Torsion Springs
6) Exit Roller
- Two self-latching bearings.
- NOTE that the flanged gear must mesh with the idler gear; the flange is the idler gear’s retainer.
7) Idler Gear
8) Pressure Roller Springs
- Unhook them at the lower front of the frame.
9) Ring Gear
- One external snap-ring.
10) Left Side Bearing[1]
11) Hot Roller w/Bushings[1]
12) Right Side Bearing[1]
13) Input Ramp
- Spread the sides of the frame A/R to free it.
14) Stripper Bar
- Spread the sides of the frame A/R to free it.
15) Pressure Roller w/Bearings[2]
- NOTE: Any evidence of flat-spotting or delamination is cause to replace this roller. A flat-spot will cause a thumping noise; delamination will only get worse.
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At this point, you can proceed in either of two ways.
a) Carry on with the full procedure for a thorough overhaul.
b) Abbreviate the procedure for a 'good-enough' overhaul.
- Apply a couple of drops of light mineral oil to the pressure roller arms' pivot points.
- Examine the sensor toggles.
- Reassemble w/new parts A/R.
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16) Output Ramp
- Two sensor cable connections.
- Spread the sides of the frame A/R to free it.
- Examine the sensor toggles. They must move freely and return to their upright positions smartly. Any tendency for them to bind or stick will result in paper jam errors
17) Pressure Roller Springs
18) Right Side Pressure Roller Arm[3]
- One E-Clip.
19) Left Side Pressure Roller Arm and Link[3]
- One E-Clip.
NOTE: The following seven steps complete the tear-down, but for reasonably clean units they can be dispensed with. Only proceed with them for units with dirty frames that need to be washed.
20) PCA
- Solenoid cable connection.
- Signal cable connection.
- Two M3x6mm pan head screws.
21) Solenoid
- One M3x6mm pan head screw.
22) Main Connector
- One M4x8mm pan head screw w/captive washers at ground wire terminal.
- Two M3x3mm shoulder screws at connector 'ears'
- Extract the wiring. Here's a view of its correct routing.
23) Right Side Ground Continuity Tab Contact- One M3x6mm pan head screw.
24) Static Brush and Left Side Ground Continuity Tab Contact
- One M3x6mm pan head screw.
25) Right Side Wiring Guide
- One M3x6mm pan head screw.
26) Frame Latches w/Springs -- Left and Right Side
- Four M3x6mm pan head screws.
- NOTE: The latches are identical and interchangeable.
26) Reassemble w/new parts A/R
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Notes
[1] Re Hot Roller and bearings:
Hot rollers can look pretty bad but still work fine. That said, any hot roller that's not in perfect condition should be replaced for longest service life of the fuser.
Bearings that turn freely but with a slight feel of grease resistance to them are ok to re-use. Bearings that spin very freely are likely grease-starved and should be replaced. If at all in doubt, replace the bearings. As with the pressure roller bearings, there's really no way to judge life expectancy.
[2] Re pressure roller and bearings:
Rusty looking spindle ends indicate that the roller has been turning in seizing or seized bearings. Both the roller and its bearings must be replaced, even if the roller looks fine otherwise.
Bearings that turn smoothly and exhibit a bit of grease seepage are ok to re-use, but there's really no way to judge bearing life expectancy. These bearings are fairly heavily loaded for their size. Unconditional replacement is probably the best practice.
[3] Re Pressure Roller Arm Pivots
The grease applied at the factory does not age well. It turns to a stiff sludge that interferes with the arms' freedom to pivot as they should. It takes lacquer thinner and a small brass-bristled brush to get the pivots clean.
Grease the pivots and the ends of the solenoid link at reassembly. The grease we use is Lubriplate No. 930-AA.
[4] This post has an explanation of the fuser types.
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Frequently Replaced Parts
Assembly, 115V Fuser, T65X Type 1: P/N 40X4418[4]
Assembly, 115V Fuser, T65X Type 2: P/N 40X5854[4]
Bearing, Hot Roll [6003Z: 17mm bore x 35mm O.D. x 10mm thick]: P/N 99A0143
Bearing, Pressure Roller [R3Z: 0.1875" bore x 0.500" O.D. x 0.196" thick]: P/N 99A1621
Pressure Roller, 28mm dia: P/N LPR-T650
Coated (Hot) Roller, 30mm dia: P/N UFR-T650
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