One of the cartridge's contacts had gotten snagged and badly distorted. With that contact incapable of making to the cartridge, the printer couldn't know that that there was a cartridge in place.HP does not make service replacement contacts available. The sub-assembly containing the contact(s) is not available. The only way to repair this is to tear down the printer to where you can get at the contact to reform it.
The left side vertical chassis member has to come off. The job is actually not all that difficult. (If you're familiar with the LaserJet 42X0/43X0 machines, the P4015's chassis is very similar.) Proceed as follows:
- - -
1) Cartridge
2) Tray 2
3) Rear Door
- Pry the right side hinge inward to free the hinge pin.
4) Rear Top Cover
- Pull it off straight up.
5) Rear Right Side Cover (Formatter Cage Cover)
- Pull it straight back.
6) Duplexer Slot Insert (if present)
- Pull it straight back.
7) Tray 2 Rear Concealment Cover
- Tip it up and tug it free of its left side hinge.
8) Fuser
- Two clip latches.
9) Cartridge Engagement Link
- Disconnect it from the cartridge access door and lower it.
10) Top Cover Assembly
- One M4x10mm bright pan head threading screw at the right front.
- Three M3x8mm washerhead screws.
- Lift the cover off.
11) Formatter Cage Door
- Open and lift to remove it.
12) Formatter Cage
- Two M3x8mm thumbscrews at the rear.
- Pull the item straight rearward to unplug/remove it.
13) Envelope Feeder Connector Cover
- Pull it away frontward.
14) Right Side Front Cover
- Two M3x8mm washerhead screws.
- Pull the cover off frontward.
15) Right Side Cover
- Pry at top and upper rear.
- NOTE: Mind the switch rod/rocker connection when reinstalling this cover.
16) Tray 1 Door
- Flex the platform's ways to free the platform's guide pins.
- Slide the door rightward to get it off its hinge pins.
- NOTE: A big rubber band is helpful for holding the platform's arms in place while you carry on with this procedure.
17) Left Side Cover
- One claw at top centre.
- One claw at arrowhead in front behind Tray 1 door.
18) Fan Connector Cover P/N RC2-5246 (sheet metal rectangle below central fan on left side)
- Two M3x8mm washerhead screws at locations "M3".
19) Fan Cable Connections and Thermistor Cable Connection
- NOTE: Make certain that the cable ends are outside the chassis where they can't get snagged when removing and reinstalling the power supply.
20) Right Side Duplexer Way
- One M4x10mm bright pan head threading screw.
- One latch button at arrowhead; slide the item rearward to remove it.
21) Switch Rod
- NOTE that the long arm goes outboard.
22) Four Violet Cables
- Connector locations are J82, J84, J95 and J96.
23) DC Power Cable
24) Pull the cables into the Tray 2 cavity.
25) Power Supply
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer at right side.
- Three M3x8mm washerhead screws at right side.
- One M4x6mm pan head screw at right side.
- Three M3x8mm washerhead screws at left side.
- One M4x6mm pan head screw at left side.
- MIND THE CABLING AS YOU PROCEED.
- Slide the unit out the rear of the machine.
26) Tray 1 Assembly
- Grey cable at J71.
- Yellow cable at J81. NOTE that the yellow cable is threaded through a rectangular grommet.
- Four M3x8mm washerhead screws.
- Four M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws.
27) Upper Right Rear Corner Cover
- One claw.
28) Delivery Assembly Rear Curved Guide
- Two claws at its top. Tip it out rearward and lift it to free three hooks at its bottom.
- NOTE: To reinstall this part, get the upper two claws seated first, then snap the lower hooks into place. [It seems a bit odd that it goes that way, but that's how it goes.]
29) Delivery Assembly
- One swing latch bearing at the right rear.
- Lift the right side end of the assembly and shift it rightward to remove it.
30) Lay the machine on its right side.
31) Left Side Power Supply/Duplexer Way
- One M4x10mm bright pan head threading screw.
- One latch button.
- Slide the item rearward to remove it.
32) Vertical Bail Wire at Upper Left Side Fan
33) Upper Left Side Fan
- Two claws.
34) Left Side Tray 2 Way Front
- One M4x10mm bright pan head threading screw.
- One claw.
35) Left Side Tray 2 Way
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws.
- One latch button.
- Slide the item rearward to free it.
36) Left Side Vertical Chassis Member
- Three M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws.
- Ten M3x8mm washerhead screws.
- Retract the torsion spring arm that's visible near the rear of the upper fan cavity. NOTE the provision for latching it in place until the chassis member has been put back on.
- Pull the chassis member away.
- - -
Here's a view of the cavity where the contact resides.
I got the contact out and pressed it onto a piece of 6mm diameter rod to make it easier to handle for reforming.
The contact went back into the chassis ok, but I didn't like the way the contact's upper torsion coil fit on its post, so I added a threading screw and flat washer to retain it.
The post had a hole in its centre that I enlarged with a 3/32" drill -- that took a short M3 threading screw nicely.The vertical chassis member has three holes punched in it right near the high voltage contacts. I drilled a fourth hole. (It seemed to me there ought to be four holes, not three.)
The holes are sight holes, for confirming that the high voltage connections are properly made with the power supply in place. It's not much of a view that you get through those little holes, but it's enough that you can visually confirm the connections.With everything back together and buttoned up, the machine worked fine. As I said earlier, it's really not a difficult repair, it's just that there are a lot of steps to take to get at the affected part.
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