Pickup Roller: RB2-4026
Main Separation Pad: RF5-2886
Left and Right Sub-Pads Kit: RY7-5050[1]
Feed Roller: RB2-3912
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Introduction
In the 1100 printers, items that commonly need attention are:
a) Pickup Roller.
b) Separation Pads.
c) Sticky Pickup Solenoid.
d) Glazed Feed Roller.
This procedure deals with all four.
[Note: 'Damper Rods' are the black plastic links attached to the door.]
It's quite a teardown to get at everything. Proceed as follows:
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1) Cartridge
2) Side 'Pods'
- Insert a medium-size plain slot screwdriver at the top of each pod and pry outward. The pods will pop free.
3) Left Side Damper Rod
- Disengage the door end of the damper rod. There's a claw on the white anchor block. Press that and the anchor block can be slid out of its channel.
4) Right Side Damper Rod
- Same as left side.
5) Face-Up/Face-Down Deflector
- There's a small claw at its left side end. Push that leftward and the left side end of the deflector can be raised. At the right side end, push down on the wire detent bail, and the deflector can be slid out leftward.
6) Door
- Two M4x8mm black pan head threading screws.
- Slide the door off the hinge, while observing how it mates with the hinge. Reinstallation can be a bit puzzling if you're unfamiliar with the door's fit on its hinge.
- Tie the door hinge in its raised position with a garbage bag tie. It makes a nuisance of itself if left free to flop about.
7) Front Cover
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws high up.
- At the lower rear corners of the cover, flex the cover to free it from its retaining studs. The cover can be tipped up somewhat and eased away frontward.
- Slide the damper rods into the printer.
8) Rear Cover
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws in deep wells.
- Raise the DIMM slot access cover/door. Remove DIMM if present.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer.
- Flex and tip away the cover as you did with the front cover.
- NOTE: At reinstallation, the side guides on the paper supply chute will tend to interfere with this cover. Nudge/pry A/R to get the cover to seat.
9) Paper Supply Chute
- Pry up gently at either side to free it.
- AT REINSTALLATION, watch that the black mylar sheet in front goes straight into place, and won't interfere with paper motion.
10) Printhead Cover
- One cable connection at control panel.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer at left side below control panel.
- Two M4x12mm black pan head threading screws.
- Two claws.
11) Pickup Roller Assembly
- Two M3x6mm bright washerhead screws below the printhead deck.
- The assembly slips off the end of the pickup shaft rightward.
-NOTE: At reinstallation, there are two locating nubs at the upper rear of the white 'ears'. Make certain those nubs are correctly seated before tightening the screws.
12) Printhead w/Sheet Metal Mounting Deck
- One foam rubber dust seal.
- Two cable connections.
- Two M3x6mm bright pan head screws w/captive star washers.
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws at the rear of the deck.
- Lift the item away.
13) Lift Plate
- Manually actuate the pickup solenoid,[2] and turn the geartrain to get the pickup shaft's cam around to where the cam follower is free of the cam.
- Raise the lift plate until the flats on its left side pivot pin permit it to come out and away.
- NOTE: At reassembly, turn the geartrain again in its correct direction to get the cam back to its normal at-rest position. It will be easier to get the pickup roller assembly back in place.
14) Main Separation Pad
- One white clip.
- TRANSFER the spring to the replacement pad.
15) Left and Right Sub-Pads
- Pluck up their front edges with a fingernail.
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Feed Roller
Glazed feed rollers will not feed paper reliably. If at all in doubt about the feed roller's condition, replace it before reassembling the machine.
Proceed as follows:
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1) Drivetrain (if you haven't already removed it to inspect the pickup solenoid)
- Motor cable connection at rear of motor.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer at lower rear.
- Two or three M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws.
2) Cable Clamp
- Just below the pickup solenoid, there's the mounting stud of a cable clamp. Force it out of place.
3) Lay the printer on its left side.
4) Formatter Pan
- Three M3x6mm bright washerhead screws.
- Swing the pan down from its right side end.
5) Cabling
- Three cable connections.
- NOTE that the white side of the amber cable's end faces up; the contact side faces down.
- Set aside the formatter pan.
6) Amber Cable
- Force the cable's cover rearward to remove it.
- Free the violet cable from two restraints.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer.
- Free the amber cable and pull it out to the front to get it out of harm's way.
7) Amber Cable Trough
- There's a latch tab near the centre rear of the part. Pry that up and you can slide the part rearward to remove it.
8) Engine Controller Assembly
- Fuser power cable connection at right side.
- Fuser thermistor cable connection at left side.
- Pickup solenoid cable connection.
- One M3x6mm bright pan head screw w/captive star washer at right side ground continuity strap.
- Four M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws -- two at the rear; two underneath at the front.
- Free the rear of the assembly and pull it away slightly.
- Two cable connections.
9) Feed Roller Gear/Clutch/Spring
- Two claws.
10) Feed Roller Assembly
- Lay the printer upside down.
- Pry out the white feed roller bearing at the left side. It has two claws holding it in place that will pop free when you pry.
- Two sensor cable connections. Free the long cable.
- Two M4x10mm bright pan head threading screws.
- MIND the paper-out sensor's toggle as you take away and reinstall the assembly.
- NOTE the tab at the front of the assembly. That must engage correctly with its slot on reinstallation.
- Clean the bearings w/methyl hydrate. No lubrication is needed.
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Notes:
[1] For what it's worth, the individual parts are:
- Left Side Sub-Pad P/N RF5-2820
- Right Side Sub-Pad P/N RF5-2821
Drivetrain removal is straightforward -- one cable connection at the rear of the motor, and three screws.
When unplugging the solenoid, take care that the connector shell doesn't come away off the board along with the cable end connector.
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