We've seen several inoperative MP Feeders on T65X machines recently; replacing the pickup solenoid fixes the problem. A service replacement solenoid's P/N is 40X6994. A replacement procedure is included here, toward the end of this note.
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It looks like the MP Feeder's pickup solenoid is a bit of a weak point on the T65X -- the redesigned pickup clutch appears to be the reason for it.
T65X MP Feeder Operation
The T65X MP Feeders don't employ a wrap-spring clutch, as all the earlier T models and the Optra S did. They have a spring-biased clutch-gear with an arc of missing teeth for a disengagement position. The bias torque that engages the clutch-gear with the drivetrain when the solenoid is energized is derived from the feeder's elevator flap spring, via the slope of the elevator cam's lobe profile. Here's a view of the arrangement from in back.
That compressed elevator flap spring is providing a
lot of bias torque to the clutch. Consequently, the cam's disengagement ledge is pressing quite forcefully on the solenoid's flapper-end. A subpar solenoid that lacks sufficient electromagnetic force to pull its flapper away from the cam's ledge will appear to be inoperative.
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Early Solenoid
[
MONDAY, AUGUST 20, 2012 -- The following has been revised based on current information.]
It appears that the original solenoid was P/N 40X4365. That solenoid has a 12W coil. The new solenoid, P/N 40X6994, has a 14.4W coil. The new solenoid is bulkier, and more difficult to get into place because of that, but it's a better solenoid for operating the strongly biased clutch on the T65X. Here's a view of the two different solenoids.
At the left is P/N 40X4365, the old, 12W solenoid. At the right is P/N 40X6994, the new 14.4W solenoid. Note the bigger coil/frame on the new solenoid. That makes it a snug fit where it goes, but it does fit in place, and the extra force it has for pulling the flapper is just what's needed for the clutch it works with.
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Solenoid Replacement
Proceed as follows:
1) Toner Cartridge
2) Paper Tray (Tray 1)
3) Back Door
- Disengage the support strap from its 'inverted T' slot and pull the door off its hinge pins.
4) Connection Access Cover
- Open it fully and its hinges can be popped free rearward.
5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door -- T650
- Three M3x10mm black washerhead threading screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Pull the cover away at
your left and slide the cover toward
your right. A downward-pointing hook will slide off a lip at the rear of the chassis.
- NOTE: The above-mentioned hook makes this an awkward part to get back in place. You have to exactly re-create the cover's attitude as the hook was coming off to get it back on again.
5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door -- T652
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Open the lower door.
- Two M3x6mm washerhead screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Tip the cover rearward and lift it off of two hooks at the bottom.
6) Left Side Cover
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead screws in deep wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- T650: Tug at the front lip and two upper claws and one lower claw will pop free. The cover's rear hinges come away easily.
- T652: Similar, but there are six claws, and one of them can be quite tenacious. First, pry at the angled upper front lip to free the upper two claws. The troublesome claw is located roughly 3" from the front and 3" from the bottom. You may have to reach in with a long narrow-bladed screwdriver to pry it loose.
7) System PCA Pan Cover
- One M3x6mm black pan head screw at upper rear.
- Loosen five M3x6mm black pan head screws.
8) MP Feeder Platform
- Flex the slide pins' ways to free the slide pins.
- Tip the platform up to vertical and pull it off its hinge pins.
9) MP Feeder Door
- Pry the support arms to pop their pins out of their ways.
- Slide the door leftward off its hinge pins.
10) Upper Deflector
- Pull the extreme left end of the piece toward you and force the deflector to the right. It can then be unhooked at the right end.
- NOTE that reinstallation of this item is complicated by a downward-projecting spike near its left side end. You really have to flex the thing to get it to go back into place.
11) Solenoid
- One cable connection. (Two-conductor yellow cable.)
- One M3x10mm washerhead threading screw.
- Extract the solenoid/cable.
NOTE: The replacement solenoid has a longer coil/frame than an early solenoid, and is difficult to get in place without loosening off the MP Feeder Lower Deflector/Elevator Flap Assembly. Remove the two screws that fasten the left side end of the assembly, and you'll be able to gain sufficient clearance to get the new solenoid in place.
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