Proceed as follows:
1) Left Side Lamp Terminal Cover
- Two M3x6mm pan head screws.
- One rearward-gripping claw.
2) Left Side Lamp Terminal
NOTE 1: The screw w/captive washer at the electrical connection is sometimes extremely tight, and the plastic will break nearby before the screw breaks loose. To prevent this from happening, grasp the plastic on either side of the screw head with slip-joint pliers, and support it as you torque the screw to loosen it.
- One M3x6mm pan head screw at plastic base.
- One M3x5mm screw w/captive washer at electrical connection.
NOTE 2: Scrape the lamp contact's surfaces where it contacts the lamp terminal with a small screwdriver. The contact surfaces must be clean and bright. Contacts that show evidence of arcing and can't be easily made clean and bright must be replaced.
3) Lamp
- Only handle the lamp with a paper towel around it; the lamp's surface should not be touched. If a lamp does get anything oily on it, clean it w/methyl hydrate.
- Burnish the lamp's contacts with synthetic steel wool. Pitted contacts that cannot be made clean and bright call for replacement of the lamp.
4) Thermistor Cable
- Unplug it and free it from its restraints.
5) AC Spade Connector at the upper right of the top cover
- Disconnect and clean up any oily residue there.
6) Top Cover
- Two M3x6mm pan head screws.
- Check that the thermal fuse's screws are snug.
7) Stripper Bar Torsion Springs
8) Exit Roller
- Two self-latching bearings.
- NOTE that the flanged gear must mesh with the idler gear; the flange is the idler gear’s retainer.
9) Idler Gear
10) Pressure Roller Springs
- Unhook them at the lower front of the frame.
11) Ring Gear
- One external snap-ring.
12) Left Side Bearing[1]
13) Hot Roller w/Bushings[1]
14) Right Side Bearing[1]
15) Input Ramp
- Spread the sides of the frame A/R to free it.
16) Stripper Bar
- Spread the sides of the frame A/R to free it.
17) Pressure Roller w/Bearings and Bearing Holders[2]
- NOTE: Any evidence of flat-spotting or delamination is cause to replace this roller. A flat-spot will cause a thumping noise; delamination will only get worse.
- - -
At this point, you can proceed in either of two ways.
a) Carry on with the full procedure for a thorough overhaul.
b) Abbreviate the procedure for a 'good-enough' overhaul.
- Scrape the right side lamp contact.
- Blow out the lamp contact and the sensors w/compressed air.
- Apply a couple of drops of light mineral oil to the pressure roller arms' pivot points.
- Reassemble w/new parts A/R.
- - -
18) Output Ramp
- Two sensor cable connections.
- Spread the sides of the frame A/R to free it.
- Examine the sensor toggles. They must move freely and return to their upright positions smartly. Any tendency for them to bind or stick will result in paper jam errors
19) Pressure Roller Springs
20) Right Side Pressure Roller Arm[3]
- One E-Clip.
21) Left Side Pressure Roller Arm and Link[3]
- One E-Clip.
NOTE: The following three steps complete the tear-down, but for reasonably clean units they can be dispensed with. Only proceed with them for units with dirty frames that need to be washed. Whether you remove it or not, examine and scrape the right side lamp contact as was done for the left side contact.
22) Right Side Lamp Contact Assembly
- Two M3x6mm pan head screws.
- One bulkhead connector.
23) PCA
- Solenoid cable connection.
- Two M3x6mm pan head screws.
24) Solenoid
- One M3x6mm pan head screw.
26) Reassemble w/new parts A/R
- - -
Notes
[1] Re Hot Roller and bearings:Notes
Hot rollers can look pretty bad but still work fine. That said, any hot roller that's not in perfect condition should be replaced for longest service life of the fuser.
Bearings that turn freely but with a slight feel of grease resistance to them are ok to re-use. Bearings that spin very freely are likely grease-starved and should be replaced. If at all in doubt, replace the bearings. As with the pressure roller bearings, there's really no way to judge life expectancy.
[2] Re pressure roller and bearings:
Rusty looking spindle ends indicate that the roller has been turning in seizing or seized bearings. Both the roller and its bearings must be replaced, even if the roller looks fine otherwise.
Bearings that turn smoothly and exhibit a bit of grease seepage are ok to re-use, but there's really no way to judge bearing life expectancy. These bearings are fairly heavily loaded for their size. Unconditional replacement is probably the best practice.
Some T64X fusers do not use plastic holders for the pressure roller bearings; the arms have been redesigned to accept the bearings directly -- a later design change, presumably.
[3] Re Pressure Roller Arm Pivots
The grease applied at the factory does not age well. It turns to a stiff sludge that interferes with the arms' freedom to pivot as they should. It takes lacquer thinner and a small brass-bristled brush to get the pivots clean.
Grease the pivots and the ends of the solenoid link at reassembly. The grease we use is Lubriplate No. 930-AA.
- - -
Frequently Replaced Parts
Assembly, 115V Fuser, T64X: P/N 40X2592
Bearing, Hot Roll [6003Z: 17mm bore x 35mm O.D. x 10mm thick]: P/N 99A0143
Bearing, Pressure Roller [R3Z: 0.1875" bore x 0.500" O.D. x 0.196" thick]: P/N 99A1621
Pressure Roller, 28mm dia: P/N LPR-T640
Coated (Hot) Roller, 30mm dia: P/N UFR-T640
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