See what they say. I'd pay money for a ticket to watch.
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Friday, February 10, 2012
Questions to Pose
The next time some CompTIA/PDI+ personage approaches you with a requirement to submit to their 'training'/testing/certification scheme, pose these questions to them: "Within the last 96 hours, how near have you been to a malfunctioning printer? Within a metre? Within a mile? Would you know a malfunctioning printer from grandma's wringer washing machine if one were to jump up behind you and bite your ass? What qualifies you to bestow or withhold a credential, a qualification? Where does that 'authority' come from?"
See what they say. I'd pay money for a ticket to watch.
See what they say. I'd pay money for a ticket to watch.
HP LaserJet 2300 -- Fuser Access
Proceed as follows:
1) Cartridge
2) Tray 2
3) Interface Connections Cover
4) Right Side Cover
- Under the cartridge door, there's a rectangular latch button. Push that down far enough and the cover can be slid forward about 5/16" to free it.
5) Rear Cover/Door
- Open the rear door part way. There's a pivoting guide rib array inside that can be unhooked to permit the door to drop open all the way.
- Two M4x10mm pan head threading screws.
- Two claws just inside the Tray 2 cavity.
6) Duplex Infeed Guide
- Two M4x14mm YZD pan head threading screws w/captive washers.
- Two small claws, left and right sides.
7) Fuser
- Three cable connections.
- One M4x10mm pan head threading screw.
- One M3x6mm pan head screw w/captive star washer.
1) Cartridge
2) Tray 2
3) Interface Connections Cover
4) Right Side Cover
- Under the cartridge door, there's a rectangular latch button. Push that down far enough and the cover can be slid forward about 5/16" to free it.
5) Rear Cover/Door
- Open the rear door part way. There's a pivoting guide rib array inside that can be unhooked to permit the door to drop open all the way.
- Two M4x10mm pan head threading screws.
- Two claws just inside the Tray 2 cavity.
6) Duplex Infeed Guide
- Two M4x14mm YZD pan head threading screws w/captive washers.
- Two small claws, left and right sides.
7) Fuser
- Three cable connections.
- One M4x10mm pan head threading screw.
- One M3x6mm pan head screw w/captive star washer.
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HP LaserJet 42X0/43X0 -- Tray 2 Won't Lift; Motors Don't Turn
The 4250/4350 machines have a sensor in the paper path that the 4200/4300 printers don't have. That sensor, if actuated at power on, produces a very odd symptom; there's no motor operation and Tray 2 doesn't lift, yet the machine ends up displaying 'READY'. The machine is completely inoperative in spite of the apparent 'READY' condition.
The sensor that can cause that to happen is PS109, Paper-Width Sensor #2. It's only present in the 4250/4350. Here's a view of where it resides.
(In the photograph, the registration assembly's flap is pulled back and held away.)
The sensor at the left is PS106, Paper-Width Sensor #1. The central sensor is PS103, the Top-of-Page Sensor. Way over to the right is PS109, Paper-Width Sensor #2. That's the one that can bring on the symptom.
We ran into the problem here right after one of the guys replaced a registration assembly in a 4250 -- no motor operation, no Tray 2 lift, yet the display said 'READY'.
It turned out that he'd installed a 4200/4300 registration assembly in a 4250. The 4200/4300 registration assembly's flap doesn't provide clearance for the additional sensor, so the sensor is always actuated. Here's a view of the two different registration assemblies.
Above is the 4250/4350 registration assembly P/N RM1-1098. Below is the 4200/4300 registration assembly P/N RM1-0011. Note the absence of a clearance punch-out for PS109 on the lower assembly's flap. That's what brought on the symptom.
It appears that HP has discontinued P/N RM1-0011, and is only supplying P/N RM-1098, the 4250/4350 style. That registration assembly will work in 4200/4300 machines as well as 4250/4350 machines. However, refurbishers are still supplying P/N RM1-0011, so those are still around to make the mistake with, which is exactly what happened here.
Needless to say, a shard of paper trapped under the registration assembly's flap at PS109 would bring on the same symptom. It must be a bug in the printers' firmware that's at the root of this; the printers ought to report a paper jam condition when a sensor is actuated at power on -- not come supposedly 'READY'.
The sensor that can cause that to happen is PS109, Paper-Width Sensor #2. It's only present in the 4250/4350. Here's a view of where it resides.
(In the photograph, the registration assembly's flap is pulled back and held away.)The sensor at the left is PS106, Paper-Width Sensor #1. The central sensor is PS103, the Top-of-Page Sensor. Way over to the right is PS109, Paper-Width Sensor #2. That's the one that can bring on the symptom.
We ran into the problem here right after one of the guys replaced a registration assembly in a 4250 -- no motor operation, no Tray 2 lift, yet the display said 'READY'.
It turned out that he'd installed a 4200/4300 registration assembly in a 4250. The 4200/4300 registration assembly's flap doesn't provide clearance for the additional sensor, so the sensor is always actuated. Here's a view of the two different registration assemblies.
Above is the 4250/4350 registration assembly P/N RM1-1098. Below is the 4200/4300 registration assembly P/N RM1-0011. Note the absence of a clearance punch-out for PS109 on the lower assembly's flap. That's what brought on the symptom.It appears that HP has discontinued P/N RM1-0011, and is only supplying P/N RM-1098, the 4250/4350 style. That registration assembly will work in 4200/4300 machines as well as 4250/4350 machines. However, refurbishers are still supplying P/N RM1-0011, so those are still around to make the mistake with, which is exactly what happened here.
Needless to say, a shard of paper trapped under the registration assembly's flap at PS109 would bring on the same symptom. It must be a bug in the printers' firmware that's at the root of this; the printers ought to report a paper jam condition when a sensor is actuated at power on -- not come supposedly 'READY'.
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Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Lexmark T652 -- Bin Full Sensor
A T652n came in the shop with its bin full sensor flag missing. In configuration mode and diagnostics mode, you can 'continue' past the bin full error message to view page counts and the event log, and you can even print a test page in diagnostics mode. Aside from that, the machine is rendered inoperative until the sensor is either replaced or disabled.
Disabling the Sensor
Unplugging the sensor disables it. The message, "Remove paper from standard output bin" will go away and the machine can be used. The sensor's connector on the System PCA can be reached by way of the DIMM slot access panel under the left side cover. Proceed as follows:
1) Access Door
- Open it.
2) Access Panel
- Loosen off two M3x6mm slotted hex head screws (5.5mm A/F).
- Slide the panel forward to free it. It may take a bit of persuasion to get it to move.
3) Sensor Cable Connector
- It's at the extreme upper rear corner of the System PCA.
Replacing the Sensor
The complete sensor assembly is P/N 40X4372. The optical sensor portion only is P/N 40X4369. (That's unlikely ever to fail.) The flag can't be had on its own, you have to get the complete sensor.
The sensor is well tucked away under the top cover. There's no getting at it without removing that cover. Proceed as follows:
1) Cartridge
2) Tray 1
3) Redrive Cap
4) Back Door
- Disengage the support strap from its 'inverted T' slot and pull the door off its hinge pins.
5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Open the lower door.
- Two M3x6mm black washerhead screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Tip the cover rearward and lift it off of two hook-points at the bottom.
6)Redrive Assembly
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Two outward-hooking claws, left and right side, at about the middle.
7) Connection Access Cover
- Open it fully and its hinges can be popped free rearward.
8) Left Side Cover
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead threading screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws in deep wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- There are six claws, and one of them can be quite tenacious. First, pry at the angled upper front lip to free the upper two claws. The troublesome claw is located roughly 3" from the front and 3" from the bottom. You may have to reach in with a long narrow-bladed screwdriver to pry it loose.
- With all the claws freed, the cover comes away easily from its hinges.
9) Right Side Cover
- One M3x10mm washerhead threading screw at the rear.
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead threading screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws in shallow wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- This cover has an array of claws similar to the left side side cover's, but it comes off more easily.
10) Fuser Cleaning Wand Cover w/Wand
11) Top Cover
- One M4x10mm pan head threading screw at the right rear.
- Four M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- The front edge has to be forced up past the rear edge of the upper front door. NOTE: It's a bit difficult to get this cover levered back into place at the front, but it is doable without damaging anything.
12) Sensor
- One claw.
- One cable connection at the sensor
- NOTE: A new sensor comes with a cable. Should you choose to install the sensor with its new cable, you'll have to remove the System PCA's cover..
Disabling the Sensor
Unplugging the sensor disables it. The message, "Remove paper from standard output bin" will go away and the machine can be used. The sensor's connector on the System PCA can be reached by way of the DIMM slot access panel under the left side cover. Proceed as follows:
1) Access Door
- Open it.
2) Access Panel
- Loosen off two M3x6mm slotted hex head screws (5.5mm A/F).
- Slide the panel forward to free it. It may take a bit of persuasion to get it to move.
3) Sensor Cable Connector
- It's at the extreme upper rear corner of the System PCA.
Replacing the Sensor
The complete sensor assembly is P/N 40X4372. The optical sensor portion only is P/N 40X4369. (That's unlikely ever to fail.) The flag can't be had on its own, you have to get the complete sensor.
The sensor is well tucked away under the top cover. There's no getting at it without removing that cover. Proceed as follows:
1) Cartridge
2) Tray 1
3) Redrive Cap
4) Back Door
- Disengage the support strap from its 'inverted T' slot and pull the door off its hinge pins.
5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Open the lower door.
- Two M3x6mm black washerhead screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Tip the cover rearward and lift it off of two hook-points at the bottom.
6)Redrive Assembly
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Two outward-hooking claws, left and right side, at about the middle.
7) Connection Access Cover
- Open it fully and its hinges can be popped free rearward.
8) Left Side Cover
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead threading screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws in deep wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- There are six claws, and one of them can be quite tenacious. First, pry at the angled upper front lip to free the upper two claws. The troublesome claw is located roughly 3" from the front and 3" from the bottom. You may have to reach in with a long narrow-bladed screwdriver to pry it loose.
- With all the claws freed, the cover comes away easily from its hinges.
9) Right Side Cover
- One M3x10mm washerhead threading screw at the rear.
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead threading screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws in shallow wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- This cover has an array of claws similar to the left side side cover's, but it comes off more easily.
10) Fuser Cleaning Wand Cover w/Wand
11) Top Cover
- One M4x10mm pan head threading screw at the right rear.
- Four M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- The front edge has to be forced up past the rear edge of the upper front door. NOTE: It's a bit difficult to get this cover levered back into place at the front, but it is doable without damaging anything.
12) Sensor
- One claw.
- One cable connection at the sensor
- NOTE: A new sensor comes with a cable. Should you choose to install the sensor with its new cable, you'll have to remove the System PCA's cover..
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Monday, February 6, 2012
Lexmark T652 -- Autocompensator Removal
The autocompensator in the T65X machines is similar to that in the earlier Ts, but there's been some rearrangement of items.
On the T650s, autocompensator removal and replacement are straightforward. On the T652s, there's a complication. There's an e-clip at the left side end of the pivot rod that's easy enough to remove, but it's near impossible to get back on because it's tucked away in a recess. This procedure clears away the item that interferes with access to the e-clip.
Proceed as follows:
1) Cartridge
2) Tray 1
3) Redrive Cap
4) Back Door
- Disengage the support strap from its 'inverted T' slot and pull the door off its hinge pins.
5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Open the lower door.
- Two M3x6mm black washerhead screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Tip the cover rearward and lift it off of two hooks at the bottom.
6) Connection Access Cover
- Open it fully and its hinges can be popped free rearward.
7) Left Side Cover
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead screws in deep wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- There are six claws, and one of them can be quite tenacious. First, pry at the angled upper front lip to free the upper two claws. The troublesome claw is located roughly 3" from the front and 3" from the bottom. You may have to reach in with a long narrow-bladed screwdriver to pry it loose.
- With all the claws freed, the cover comes away easily from its hinges.
8) Set the machine on its back.
9) PTO Shaft
- Pull it out.
10) Left Side Chassis Stand Block
- Two M5x12mm pan head screws. (The nut plates for these screws are unsecured once the screws are removed. 'Best to remove the nut plates as well.)
- Autoconnect connector. Two claws. Push it upward.
- Autosize sensing module cover. One claw at the inner rear.
- Autosize sensing cable -- disconnect it.
11) Retraction Spring
- Unhook it and remove it.
12) Motor End Cap
- Cut the ty-wrap and slip the cap off.
13) Three Cable Connections
- NOTE that the blue cable goes above; the white cable goes below.
- Unplug them. The motor's cable can't be entirely freed until the unit is dismounted.
14) One M3x8mm pan head screw w/captive washers
- At the rear of the autocompensator's frame -- remove it.
15) E-Clips
- Remove both from the autocompensator pivot rod.
- AT REASSEMBLY, install the left side clip first, then the right side clip.
16) Slide the unit leftward to free the pivot rod's right side end. The unit can come away. Free the motor's cable entirely.
On the T650s, autocompensator removal and replacement are straightforward. On the T652s, there's a complication. There's an e-clip at the left side end of the pivot rod that's easy enough to remove, but it's near impossible to get back on because it's tucked away in a recess. This procedure clears away the item that interferes with access to the e-clip.
Proceed as follows:
1) Cartridge
2) Tray 1
3) Redrive Cap
4) Back Door
- Disengage the support strap from its 'inverted T' slot and pull the door off its hinge pins.
5) Lower Rear Cover w/Fuser Access Door
- Two M3x10mm washerhead threading screws.
- Open the lower door.
- Two M3x6mm black washerhead screws.
- Open the fuser access door -- two claws.
- Tip the cover rearward and lift it off of two hooks at the bottom.
6) Connection Access Cover
- Open it fully and its hinges can be popped free rearward.
7) Left Side Cover
- Two M3x8mm black washerhead screws in the handgrip wells.
- Two M3x10mm washerhead screws in deep wells in the side of the toner cartridge cavity.
- There are six claws, and one of them can be quite tenacious. First, pry at the angled upper front lip to free the upper two claws. The troublesome claw is located roughly 3" from the front and 3" from the bottom. You may have to reach in with a long narrow-bladed screwdriver to pry it loose.
- With all the claws freed, the cover comes away easily from its hinges.
8) Set the machine on its back.
9) PTO Shaft
- Pull it out.
10) Left Side Chassis Stand Block
- Two M5x12mm pan head screws. (The nut plates for these screws are unsecured once the screws are removed. 'Best to remove the nut plates as well.)
- Autoconnect connector. Two claws. Push it upward.
- Autosize sensing module cover. One claw at the inner rear.
- Autosize sensing cable -- disconnect it.
11) Retraction Spring
- Unhook it and remove it.
12) Motor End Cap
- Cut the ty-wrap and slip the cap off.
13) Three Cable Connections
- NOTE that the blue cable goes above; the white cable goes below.
- Unplug them. The motor's cable can't be entirely freed until the unit is dismounted.
14) One M3x8mm pan head screw w/captive washers
- At the rear of the autocompensator's frame -- remove it.
15) E-Clips
- Remove both from the autocompensator pivot rod.
- AT REASSEMBLY, install the left side clip first, then the right side clip.
16) Slide the unit leftward to free the pivot rod's right side end. The unit can come away. Free the motor's cable entirely.
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Lexmark T65X -- Autocompensator Gear Spindle Loss
A T652n came in the shop with a little bag taped to it containing a mystery part and a note, like so.
The printer worked from Tray 1, but the pickup cycles were growly. Turning the pickup rollers backwards by hand produced ratchety sounding clicks, as from gear teeth jumping.
It turned out that the mystery part was a gear spindle that had slipped out the side of the autocompensator arm. Here's a view of it.
There's a whole row of these spindles up the length of the arm. The loose one slid back into place easily, restoring normal 'feel' to the gear-train.
I dabbed both ends of each spindle with CA adhesive. (The uppermost spindle is a bit difficult to get at.)
This post tells how to get the autocompensator out of a T652.
The printer worked from Tray 1, but the pickup cycles were growly. Turning the pickup rollers backwards by hand produced ratchety sounding clicks, as from gear teeth jumping.It turned out that the mystery part was a gear spindle that had slipped out the side of the autocompensator arm. Here's a view of it.
There's a whole row of these spindles up the length of the arm. The loose one slid back into place easily, restoring normal 'feel' to the gear-train.I dabbed both ends of each spindle with CA adhesive. (The uppermost spindle is a bit difficult to get at.)
This post tells how to get the autocompensator out of a T652.
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